FixGrid Academy — Field checklist
Refrigerator Not Cooling
Domestic refrigerator (top-freezer or side-by-side) · Intermediate
Box is warm, no cooling. Confirm the compressor is trying to start before you condemn a sealed system.
1Safety first
- Unplug the unit or open the breaker before removing the rear panel.
- Confirm dead with a non-contact tester.
- Treat run capacitors as charged — discharge before handling.
- Watch sharp condenser fins and hot compressor surfaces.
2First checks
- Confirm power at the outlet and that the control is calling for cooling.
- Listen: compressor attempting to start and tripping, or dead silent?
- Check both fans — condenser fan and evaporator fan.
- Look at the evaporator: frosted, iced solid, or bone dry?
3Narrow the system
- Split the problem: no-run (electrical/start) vs runs-but-no-cooling.
- Pull the rear panel and identify the start system — relay/overload or inverter board.
- Feel condenser temperature and check the coil for lint blockage.
- Rule out a defrost/airflow fault before any sealed-system talk.
4Highest-probability tests
- Test the start relay/overload for continuity and correct resistance.
- On inverter systems, verify supply to the board and drive output to the compressor.
- Check compressor winding resistance for open or shorted windings.
- Confirm no ground fault at the compressor terminals.
5Common outcomes and watch-outs
- Most common: failed start device (relay/overload) or a failed inverter driver.
- A locked rotor with a good start device means compressor, not relay.
- Never add refrigerant to diagnose — prove the electrical side first.
- Verify pull-down with a thermometer before you close the call.