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Samsung · Refrigerator · Model RF28R7351SG

Samsung RF28R7351SG DIY Repair Guide

Ice maker freezing up, fridge warm, or 22 E / 33 E error? Fix It Yourself with Confidence.

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Safety first — lockout / tagout

Unplug the refrigerator before servicing any electrical component. Shut off the water supply before removing the ice maker or water filter housing.

Tools you'll need

  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Nut driver set
  • Hair dryer or heat gun
  • Multimeter

Step-by-step repair flows

Pick the symptom that matches what your Samsung RF28R7351SG is doing right now. Each flow ends in a parts list and an option to escalate if it's beyond comfortable DIY scope.

Symptom

Ice maker not making ice (frozen or jammed)

Common on the RF28R — the auger or fill tube freezes shut. Manual reset + thaw clears 80% of cases before any part swap.

Diagnostic flow

  1. 1

    Force-test the ice maker

    Open the freezer drawer, remove ice bucket, press and hold the test button (small blue/black button on the side of the ice maker) for ~3 seconds until you hear a chime.

  2. 2

    Listen for the cycle

    Motor runs ~6 minutes through harvest + fill. If it completes and fills, the maker is OK and the problem is upstream (filter / inlet valve).

  3. 3

    Thaw the fill tube

    Pull the ice maker assembly out (two screws) and use a hair dryer on LOW for 5–8 minutes on the white plastic fill tube. Ice plugs here block all new fills.

  4. 4

    Check the water filter

    A clogged DA29-00020B filter starves the inlet valve. Replace every 6 months — bypass plug confirms the filter is the cause if ice resumes.

  5. 5

    Verify the inlet valve

    120 VAC at the valve during a fill call but no water = bad valve. Replace assembly DA74-40150E.

Recommended parts

  • Samsung DA29-00020B water filter

    $35–$55

  • Ice maker assembly DA97-15217D

    Full drop-in replacement

    $120–$180

  • Water inlet valve DA74-40150E

    $60–$95

OEM matches verified by FixGrid AI. Affiliate links may apply.

Symptom

Fridge section warm, freezer still cold

Classic frozen-evaporator failure. Defrost system (heater, thermistor, or board) failed and the evap coil is iced over, blocking airflow to the fridge.

Diagnostic flow

  1. 1

    Confirm the symptom

    Freezer reads at setpoint but fridge climbs above 42°F. Place a thermometer in each compartment for 1 hour.

  2. 2

    Force defrost

    Press and hold Freezer + Lighting buttons for ~8 seconds until display blinks; press Lighting until you see Fd. Run for 20–30 min to melt the evap coil.

  3. 3

    Inspect the evaporator

    Remove freezer rear panel — sheet of ice on the coil confirms defrost failure. No ice = airflow / damper issue, not defrost.

  4. 4

    Test the defrost heater & thermistor

    Heater should read 20–60 Ω; thermistor 5–15 kΩ at room temp. Out of range = replace.

  5. 5

    Replace defrost components

    Most cost-effective order: thermistor → heater → main control board.

Recommended parts

  • Defrost thermistor DA32-00006S

    $15–$25

  • Defrost heater DA47-00244U

    $45–$85

  • Main PCB DA92-00384B

    Last resort

    $180–$260

OEM matches verified by FixGrid AI. Affiliate links may apply.

Samsung RF28R7351SG — FAQ

What does 22 E / 33 E mean on a Samsung RF28R7351SG?
22 E = fridge fan error (often frozen by an iced evap coil); 33 E = ice maker function error. Both usually clear after a forced defrost and ice-maker test cycle.
How long does the Samsung RF28R7351SG ice maker take to make ice after a reset?
First cubes appear in 6–8 hours after a hard reset; full bin takes ~24 hours. If nothing after 24 hours, run the fill-tube thaw step.
Is the Samsung RF28R7351SG worth repairing myself?
Yes — most failures are thermistor, heater, ice maker, or water valve ($15–$180 in parts). A tech visit averages $250–$450; DIY saves you a service call.
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